30 שעות בתל אביב – חופשת יום נישואים קצרה
סוף שבוע במלון בוטיק בתל אביב
תל אביב היא אחת הערים האהובות עלינו בעולם. היא כמעט מצליחה להשוות את עצמה לערים האירופיות שאנחנו כל כך אוהבים. (מישהו אמר ברלין?)
מה לא אמרו על תל אביב? עיר ללא הפסקה, תוססת, קלילה, פלורליסטית, מגניבה ועוד כל מיני סופרלטיבים, והכל נכון.
אנחנו מאוד אוהבים להגיע לתל אביב, להחנות את הרכב בחניון ולהסתובב ברגל, ליהנות מהאווירה והוייב התל אביבי. לא סתם מגדירים אותה “מדינת תל אביב” כשמגיעים אליה באמת מרגישים שאתה בעולם אחר. בכל פינת רחוב, צעירים לבושים בסטייל, שותים, אוכלים, מבלים.. אוירת חופש וכיף. זו האווירה שתל אביב משרה על סובביה.
לצערי בדפי היסטורית המגורים שלנו, תל אביב לא קיימת, אבל אולי זה מה שגורם לנו תמיד לשוב אליה, לטייל לבד, או עם הבנות. להסתובב ברחוב, להיכנס לסרט בסנימטק או סתם לטייל בשדרות רוטשילד האהובות עלינו, לשבת בכיכר הבימה המחודשת ולזלול פיצה מושחתת של טוני וספה.
ככה אנחנו עושים כבר שנים, מגיעים בבוקר חוזרים בערב.
חופשה בתל אביב?!?
בתקופה האחרונה קצת הזנחנו את תל אביב, גיחות קצרות למסעדה או ביקור אצל אח שלי שגר בעיר לא נחשבים.
עשינו הרבה טיולי טבע לאחרונה וקצת חו”ל על הדרך אבל המון זמן לא טיילנו ממש בתל אביב, לכן כשזיו חשף שבוע לפני יום הנישואים שלנו, שהשנה נחגוג אותו במלון בוטיק בתל אביב, ממש שמחתי!
החופשה הזו, עד כמה שהיא הייתה קצרה, הגיעה בדיוק בזמן. אחרי תקופה מאתגרת שעברתי, הויקנד הקצר הזה, היה התרופה הכי טובה שיכולתי לבקש.
במקור הייתה תוכנית אחת ובפועל יצא קצת אחרת, בכל זאת “כל תכנית היא בסיס לשינויים”.
זיו שהוא מאסטר בתכנון טיולים (אפילו יותר ממני) הזמין לנו סיור באתרים היסטוריים של ראשית תל אביב. לשני חובבי נוסטלגיה שכמונו הסיור הזה התאים בול.
אבל טקס שבועות בבית ספר, ששתיים מתוך שלוש הבנות שלנו מופיעות, טרף את כל הקלפים, והבנו שלסיור לא נספיק להגיע.
אחרי שהתבשלנו בחום של בית הספר, נפרדנו מהבנות ונסענו לתל אביב.
בחרנו לפתוח בארוחת בוקר ב”קפיטריה” המדוברת של רושפלד שנמצאת בקניון TLV.
מזג האוויר היה מצויין, יום אביבי שמשי, חם אבל לא מעיק ובעיקר לא לח. (נשבעת שבבית הספר בבוקר היה חם יותר, ואני גרה בהרים).
תחילה ישבנו בחוץ, אבל עשן הסיגריות של הסובבים והיעדר מקום ישיבה בחוץ ללא עישון, גרם לנו לברוח לתוך המסעדה.
השירות היה קצת איטי, (ביקשנו מי סוכר במשך עשר דקות ורק אז נזכרו לומר לנו שאזל…)
הזמנו טוסט אבוקדו וקרואסון סנדוויץ וכמובן קפה. האוכל היה טרי וטעים וגם ממש לא יקר, למרות הייחוס של השף שעומד מאחורי המסעדה, ואף ישבנו שולחן לידנו, היה לנו טעים ונעים, התאכזבנו מכך שלא היה ניתן לשבת בחוץ בלי לנשום עשן של סיגריות.
שתי ארוחות בוקר ושני קפה – 120 ש”ח.
אחרי כמה סידורים בקניון, נסענו לכיוון המלון. התלבטנו אם ללכת לתערוכת צילומים של תל אביב בבית ביאליק (אוהבי נוסטלגיה, כבר אמרתי?!?), אך מסגרת הזמן לא אפשרה והבנו שפשוט לא נספיק להגיע. לבסוף החלטנו שלאחר פריקת המזוודות והאוטו נטייל רגלית בסביבת המלון.
נוסטלגיה תל אביבית במיטבה - רחוב דיזינגוף המתחדש
סבא שלי גר כל חייו בתל אביב, מאז שהגיע לארץ בשנות ה- 20, כן הרבה לפני קום המדינה. בתור ילדה הייתי מבלה ימים רבים בשדרות מוצקין, רחוב קטן הניצב לדיזינגוף. הכרתי כל פינה, חנות וספסל בדיזינגוף.
אחת האטרקציות האהובות עלי הייתה לצפות במזרקה בכיכר צינה (דיזינגוף), לשבת על הספסלים האפורים, לאכול גלידה, ולהאכיל את הציפורים הרבות שהסתובבו שם.
עם השנים סבא שלי הזדקן ובמקום שנגיע אליו הוא היה מגיע אלינו הביתה, כך הפסקנו לבקר בדיזינגוף.
היום אני מצטערת שלא השכלתי לשמוע ממנו סיפורים על ראשיתה של תל אביב, לפני הקמת המדינה.
סבא שלי נפטר לפני הרבה שנים, אבל תמיד שאני בתל אביב אני חושבת עליו, במיוחד ברחוב דיזינגוף.
מאוד התרגשתי לגלות שהמלון שזיו הזמין נמצא ממש על כיכר דיזינגוף. בשנים האחרונות הכיכר עברה שיפוץ רציני, ולמעשה הדבר היחיד שנשמר מהכיכר המקורית היא המזקרה הענקית במרכז. הכיכר הונמכה, ומסביבה נטעו עצים ושתלו דשא, את ספסלי האבן האפורים החליפו כיסאות צבעוניים שמקשטים את הכיכר. גם החנויות מסביב לכיכר הרחבה שופצו, והמקום נראה יפה ומזמין.
מלון בוטיק בעיר הלבנה
וויט האוס ( The white house hotel ) הוא למעשה מלון בוטיק הנמצא בתוך בניין באוהאוס ישן שעבר שיפוץ מלא.
למרות שהגענו לפני שעת הצ’ק אין, החדר שלנו היה מוכן וקיבלנו אותו מיד.
זיו הלך להחנות את הרכב (אין חנייה במלון) ואני עליתי לחדר להתארגן ולהניח את התיקים שלנו.
בלובי הקטן שנמצא בקומת המרתף יש גם מכונת קפה, נינושים קלים ומתקן מים לשימוש אורחי המלון.
את המלון עוטפת גינה קטנה וחביבה, עם שולחנות וכיסאות בסגנון וינטאג, כורסאות ראטן ותאורה נעימה.
מיד בכניסה למלון וגם בגינת המלון צד את עיני קיר שמח ומיוחד, רשתות שחורות הפרוסות על הקיר וכליהם תלויים עציצים צהובים. אין צבע שמשמח אותי יותר מצהוב, וביום חמים בסוף האביב זה פשוט התאים בול.. הקיר המושלם הזה היווה בהמשך לוקשיין מעולה לצילומים צהובים ושמחים. עיצוב אורבני במלוא הדרו.
במלון ניתן להשכיר אופניים לנסיעה בעיר, ויש להם מקום חנייה בגינת המלון.
החדר שלנו היה בקומה השנייה, החדר קטן אך מעוצב יפה, בריהוט עץ מודרני וצבעוני.
בחדד אפשר למצוא מקרר קטן, קומקום ועמדה להכין שתייה חמה. חדר הרחצה קטן ונעים ובו מוצרי אבמטיה ומייבש שיער, בחדר הייתה גם מרפסת קטנה. מינימליסטי ובהחלט מספק.
לאחר התארגנות קלה, יצאנו לטייל בעיר, למרות שבסוף לא עשינו שום אטרקציה, נזכרנו שגם לטייל ברחוב זה כיף ובדיוק מה שאנחנו נוהגים לעשות בחו״ל.
תל אביב עיר ללא הפסקה
רחוב דיזינגוף, למרות השיפוץ שהכיכר עברה, נשאר בדיוק כפי שזכרתי אותו. צעיר, שיקי ותמיד הומה אדם. בצהרי יום שישי, הרחוב היה עמוס באנשים, המסעדות והברים צסביב היו מלאים, וכן החנויות. הלכנו לאורך הרחוב עד דיזינגוף סנטר. לא נכנסנו ל״סנטר״ אבל זה לא מנע ממני להרגיש שחזרתי 20 ומשהו שנים אחורה, לתקופה שהייתי נערה ודיזינגוף סנטר היה כמעט הקניון היחיד במרכז, לא הייתה חופשת בית ספר שלא הייתי נוסעת עם חברות שלי באוטובוסים רק בשביל לדפדף בחנויות הפוסטרים, לקנות מגזינים מחו״ל בדוכנים, להיכנס לסרט בקולנוע דיזינגוף במרתף וליהנות מסניף הברגר קינג הראשון שנפתח אז בישראל.
היה נחמד לראות על קירות הסנטר מחווה לזוכי האירוויזיון הישראלים, מזכרת מהארווויזיון האחרון שהיה בארץ לפני חודש.
אחרי הסנטר הסתובבנו וחזרנו צפונה, הלכנו על שדרת בן גוריון היפה, וגילינו מה אמצעי התחבורה הזמין והפשוט ביוצר היום בתל אביב: קורקינט. בכל רחוב מונחים להם מספר קורקינטים. אפליקציה פשוטה לנייד וברגע שוכרים קורקינט, נוסעים עד לנקודה שצריך ופשוט יורדים ומשאירים במקום. זיו היה חייב לנסות, ויצא לנסיעת מבחן בשדרה. אני העדפתי להישאר בצד המצלם.
המשכנו ללכת עד כיכר אתרים, לא יכולנו שלא לדבר על כמה מפוספסת הכיכר הזו ומה ניתן לעשות איתה.
מלמעלה ראינו את המוני האנשים הגודשים את חוף פרישמן. הלכנו לאורך הטיילת וזיו החליט שזה מקום לנסיעה קצת יותר ארוכה בקורקינט. מסקנה בתום שתי נסיעות – למי שצריך קורקינט על בסיס יומי, משתלם יותר לקנות אחד.
שתי נסיעות של פחות מחצי שעה עלו קצת יותר מ 30 שקלים. אבל אין ספק שזה גימיק מגניב.
ארל'ה - וייב צעיר ונאצ'וס מושחתים
אחרי הסיבוב הקצר בטיילת המשופצת, חזרנו לאיזור דיזינגוף. רעב קל החל להציק לנו והחלטנו לעצור בבר הומה אדם. רק בתל אביב אפשר למצוא בר הומה אנשים בשעות הצהריים של יום שישי.
ארל’ה הוא פיצה בר עם וייב צעיר ותל אביבי, וממרום שנות השלושים המאוחרות שלנו, העלנו את ממוצע הגיל בבר לפחות בעשור.
העיצוב של הבר מיוחד ושונה – הקופה והבר עצמו בנויים בתוך מכונית ישנה בצבע אדום, שקשה לפספס כשעוברים ברחוב.
למרות שהתמחות המקום הוא הפיצה הדקה שלהם, בטננו חפצה בנישונוש קל, ולכן הזמנו מנת נאצ’וס מושחתת : נאצ’וס עם סלסלת עגבניות, זיתים ירוקים, גרגירי תירס, גבינה פטה וצהובה שביעבעו לאחר שעברו חימום בתנור, כשמוסיפים לזה בירה צוננת (לזיו) וכוס יין לבן (בשבילי), מקבלים את הנישנוש המושלם.
השירות היה מצויין, וגם מנת הנאצ’וס שקלעה בול למזון מנחם וטעים שיחזיק אותנו עד לארוחת הערב.
happy hour וקצת קולטורה
חזרנו למלון למנוחה קצרה, הערב עוד צעיר ומחכים לנו כרטיסים להצגה של בית לסין “לילה אחד מרקוביץ”.
לאחר מנוחה קלה, מקלחת והחלפת בגדים, ירדנו ל happy hour בגינת המלון. כחלק משירותיו, המלון מציע לאורחיו גם שעה שמחה (happy hour) בגינת המלון. כשעוד האלכוהול משעת הצהריים עדיין לא הספיק להתאדות, מצאנו את עצמנו לוגמים קאווה צוננת ונשנושי פירות ופיצוחים.
ה “happy hour” במלון הותיר בדיוק מספיק זמן לאכול ארוחה קלה לפני ההצגה.
כשזיו תיכנן את החופשה הזו, הוא חיפש אטרקציה שנוכל לעשות בטווח הקרוב של המלון, כדי שלא נצטרך להזיז את הרכב בתוך תל אביב. לכן מיד חשב על הצגה בבית לסין שנמצא במרכז דיזינגוף ממש מספר בלוקים מהמלוון, נשמע מושלם! רק מה שהוא לא ידע שתיאטרון בית לסין נמצא בשיפוצים וכל ההצגות הועברו לאולם במוזיאון ארץ ישראל ברמת אביב….
למרות השינוי בתוכנית המקורית, זה לא פגם לנו בהנאה. עוד לא היינו ממש רעבים לארוחת ערב, אבל החלטנו לאכול משהו כדי שלא נהיה ממש רעבים בתום ההצגה.
וככה הגענו ל“צינה בר” בשעות ערב מוקדמות, כשהצעירים של תל אביב עדיין בארוחות ערב או עוד לא התעוררו מההנג אובר של שעת הצהריים..
כיאה לשעה המוקדת והחלשה בבר, שמחנו לגלות שכל תפריט האוכל במבצע של 1+1 וכל תפריט האלכוהול ב 50% הנחה.. לא כל יום אוכלים ושותים בזול בארץ. כנראה שהפחמימות מהצהריים והאלכוהול שעוד זרם בעורקנו לא הספיק לנו אז הזמנו פיצה בטטה ובולגרית ובייגלה ירושלמי עם רטבים. אני נהנתי לי מקוקטייל מוצלח ומרענן שאת השפעותיו הרגשתי עוד הרבה אחרי שיצאנו מהבר.
ההצגה “לילה אחד מרקוביץ” הייתה קלילה ומצחיקה וגם מעניינת. מודה שבתחילת ההצגה היה לי עוד קשה להתרכז, אבל אחרי שהשפעת האלכוהול קצת פגה, התעשתתי וגם נהנתי מאוד.
בוקר קייצי בתל אביב
היום הראשון והגדוש עבר, והתעוררנו לבוקר חם של שבת, שהוא גם היה יום העזיבה שלנו. תיכננו את כל היום בים, ולקראת הצהריים לחזור הביתה ולהתארגן לארוחת ערב חג שבועות אצל ההורים שלי.
פתחנו את הבוקר בארוחת בוקר, עלות הלילה במלון כללה גם ארוחת בוקר, אך מכיוון שלמלון אין מטבח, ארוחת הבוקר מוגשת בקפה לנדוור שנמצא מול המלון.
יש מבחר של ארוחות מתוך תפריט מובנה (לא התפריט הרגיל). בחרנו במנת אגס בנדיקט, שהייתה טובה, אבל אכלתי טובות ממנה.
אחרי ארוחת הבוקר, חזרנו למלון להתארגן לצ’ק אאוט.
החלפנו לבגדי ים, ושמחתי ממש שבגד החוף המושלם שהזמנתי בעלי אקספרס בדיוק בגיע בשישי בבוקר.
השארנו את המזוודות בלובי המלון והלכנו לחוף פרישמן.
היינו כל כך מפוצצים מארוחת הבוקר כך שעל אוכל לדרך לא הצלחנו לחשוב, אבל ידענו שבערב מצפה לנו ארוחת חג (ערב שבועות), והחלטנו לעצור בדרך ולרכוש שייק פרי, שיחזיק אותנו עד לארוחת הערב.
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לקחנו את השילוב האהוב עלינו בננה, תמר בבקבוק של ליטר כמובן.
מחירו של ליטר – 30 ש”ח.
שעתיים תמימות בחוף פרישמן, עם בריזה נעימה של חודש יוני ושייק טעים טעים. לא צריך יותר מזה.
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